Beach Bum Beginnings

The next part of my journey here in Australia involves scowering the coast for the perfect wave. I have already experienced great surf in Curl Curl down in the town of Manly, however being that this trip was originally built around surf spots, there is going to be quite a few waves involved. I'll try not to bore you too much with details of every wave I surfed, but I will tell you about some amazing highlights from a few great spots.

Waking up in Port Macquarie to the muffled murmers of old people peering into my car, debating if I was dead, a bum, or just a really tired guy sleeping in his car, I rolled out of my cave wishing I had put the curtains up around all the windows. As the profoundly aged fled the scene to continue on their dawn walks, I figured I might as well get a move on and dstart checking surf spots in hopes of paddling out before making another great leap up the coast to the next planned beach on he map. Port Macquirie has a few different beaches pointed in difference directions allowing you to pick the best facing beach according to the swell direction coming in. After the first two spots failed to impress me, I was happy to see head high waves at the only northerly facing beach I came to. Throwing on my wet suit, I optimistically sauntered down to the beach, eager to catch waves. There were only a hand full of guys in the water as I was paddling out, and as I was on my way to join them I started noticing large, jagged rocks begin to jut out of the water as the waves would recede the water's depth exposing them. Zig zagging my way out to the peak, I sat and watched the "safe zones" that the locals were surfing, taking note of where and when the death traps revealed themselves.

After building up some courage, I paddled into my first wave, and as I stood up and started taking the wave down the line, three dolphins began riding the wave with me! I could clearly see their slender, streamline bodies through the transparent, turquoise water, pumping their powerful flukes, propelling them along the wave with me. With everything slowing down as if it were in slow motion, I could see the wave, the dolphins, the white sand all beneath me through the glimmering, early morning water. Awestruck at this incredible wave I was on, I couldn't help but think that this wasn't real, however it all became very real very quickly. Now everybody knows that when time slows down into slow motion, in order for it to catch back up to present time, it has to go twice as fast. So as my surreal experience quickly came to an end, in an instant the dolphins did an underwater flip to avoid the shallowing waters before us, returning back out towards the incessant number of aqua bumps rolling in. With time still trying to catch up, I was barely able to notice the protruding rocks speeding towards me. Putting all of my weight on my heals, trying to turn out of the way of the guaranteed hospital appointments in front of me, I just barely missed the rocks as I fell into the white wash.

A bit jolted, flustered, puzzled, ecstatic at what had just happened, I paddled back out to the group to get one approving nod from a local, which was satisfactory enough for me. The rest of the surf session was pretty standard, and after getting out of the water, packing up and getting back to the M1 highway, which roughly runs from Sydney to Cairns, I set off for the next surf town. This would go on for the next four days, going from one sleepy surf town to the next, camping in my little Wicked Camper on the beach. If there were waves, I would stay the day going out multiple times a day only to be hindered by the deep growls of my stomach. Once fulfilled, back out I went until either the sun went down or my arms became flaccid spaghetti noodles, pathetically slapping at the water. ​ With it being Australia's early spring it still gets dark before 6pm, so I'll often spend my nights at cafe's or pubs, eager to talk to anyone willing to tolerate me being that the only person I talk to is me, myself and Buddy (my car) while on the road for hours at a time. More often than not, I'll end up engaging with someone interesting whether it be the old salty seaman, telling me of his own adventures on the ocean, or a waitress that loves America and can't wait to see LA (I usually shed a bit light on that situation), or some other foreign traveler, trying to find their way in this vast world we live in. It's kind of surreal having conversations with people you meet that you know you'll never, ever see again. I've sometimes caught myself thinking about what it would be like to be them and live the life they have had. Such unique lives each and everyone one of us live... Adversely though, other nights I won't feel like talking to anyone and I'll end up finding myself on some vacant beach writing or reading or sometimes just staring up at the stars in wonderment as I listen to the waves greet the shore. In a way, I sort of feel like the beach bums you see back home; only with a car, surfboard and electronic devices. Nonetheless, I'm finding this temporary reality to be so much different than my past traveling experiences. In a good way. ​

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Blue Mountains Pt. 2

Waking up bright and early the next morning to the symphony of bird calls surrounding me, I packed up my gear, took care of my campsite, and headed out for a new adventure for the day.

My friend Jacqui recommended I check out some enormous caves called Jenolan caves, so I grabbed a map at a tourist center and began driving deeper and deeper into the Blue Mountains National Park. Every now and then I would come to a high point and catch yet another breathtaking view, other times I would be almost engulfed in the fauna surrounding me. I was even lucky enough to spot my first kangaroo on my drive to the caves, which was quite exciting, however as I'm writing this now I've seen more than I can remember. I'll never forget that first one though as it was just standing on the side of the road with its little arms and big thick tail, looking at me as if to say, "Oi there mate, whatah you doin here?"

With the drive flying by with all the scenery to look at, I soon made it to a steep winding road that took me far down into the canyon and sure enough the road ended up taking me right through a giant cave! I couldn't believe it as I switched on my headlights, slowly cruising through the extremely narrow passage way. Coming out on the other side, I parked my car and went straight for a map to find more of these giant caves. Finding the biggest one on the map, I headed down the trail, excited and eager to see if it was bigger than the one I drove through, and sure enough it was as I turned a corner and was able to get my first glimpse of the mouth of the cave. Almost running down the trail now in excitement, I made it to the cave and from there was in heaven. I was more happy than a kangaroo on a trampoline as I began running all over the depths of the cave testing my echo, making bird calls, and climbing to the ceiling to get the best vantage point. Whilst the cave wasn't as deep as caves I have been through in Laos or Guam, this cave was by far the most enormous from floor to ceiling and from side to side.

After hiking around, exploring another cave and seeing yet another amazing view of the canyon, I wanted to be sure to hit one more waterfall that I had read about before making way to the coast. Having seen one beautiful waterfall already, I figured I would spend a bit less time at this one so that I could move on back to the surf and be able to get to my campsite before dark, which I usually prefer. Once again underestimating mother nature, I took one look at the beauty and size of the waterfall and knew it would be worth spending the time, exploring it to the fullest. ​ ​​ With this waterfall being a bit more accessible, I was able to get views from both sides at the top and then took a

very interesting trail, with incredibly steep stairs, cave like cliff overhangs, and amazing switch backs that gave me even better perspectives on the falls as well as the beautiful valley before it. Being sure to mind my manners this time, I only climbed around half as much as I usually would once reaching the bottom of the falls. Nonetheless, I was still completely captured at the profuse amounts of water cascading from one rock to the next as it inevitably reached its temporary destination in a large pitch of water before me.

I don't know what I was thinking, initially trying to rush this unforgettable experience. So many times I stood there befuddled at the sites my brain was trying to comprehend. All this beauty left me wanting to just set up my hammock and stay the night before this beast of a waterfall but I knew I had to move on.

With the sun beginning to set, I began driving towards the coast, unsure of where I was going to stay that night. That didn't bother me though, knowing that at any point, I could park the car, set up the bed in the back and stay wherever I wanted. And that's exactly what I did as I pulled into the sleepy town of Port Macqurie that night. Not exactly sure where I was perspectively to the town until I woke up the next morning to this beautiful sight...

The Arrival

Good ' ay Mates!

Well, I've been in Australia almost three days now and already this place has given me quite the run for my money! After the 19 hours I spent in the air (which really wasn't all that bad) I touched down in beautiful Sydney, eager to get this new adventure under way. Leaving the airport, I was immediately met by the cool crisp air of an Australian winter, nearly at its' end. Everything was fresh and clear, which I could greatly appreciate being that I have been so many places where you step out of an airport or off a train and you are met by a not so pleasant first impression. Putting a light jacket on, I hailed a cab, loaded all of my gear into the back and headed straight for my Wicked Camper. ​

Pulling into the rental lot, I couldn't have been more excited to see my little buddy for the first time parked there, freshly washed, vacuumed, and ready to take me on an adventure of a lifetime. After scribbling on a few wavers, liability forms and "I promise not to drive it off a cliff" agreements, that little guy was finally mine for the next month. I threw my stuff in the back and raced around to the driver's side door, hopped in and saw that the steering wheel was to the right of me? Chuckling to myself, I hopped out and ran around to the other side, (the right side) and sat in the actual drivers seat. As I was pulling out I could see the guy that rented me the car shaking is head, but luckily with a smile on his face. Now this wasn't my first time driving on the opposite side of the road, but believe me, no matter how many times you do it, your first time back is a bit nerve racking. I was too excited to care though. I was in Sydney for the first time and had a lot to see.

Initially not having a map, I figured it would be best to get to a high point, find downtown and figure it out from there. After getting honked at numerous times for breaking just about every Australian traffic violation, I finally found myself downtown, and actually ran right into the famous Sydney Opera House without even trying to. I parked the car and immediately got chills as I walked up the steps of this iconic landmark. I couldn't believe I was there. I had actually made it.

I was in a frenzy; taking pictures, running around trying to take in all that was around me. From the top of the stairs I could see all of downtown, the famous Sydney Harbor Bridge, and the beautiful Tasman sea before me, shimmering like a dream as the ferries came in and out of the harbor. It was all too much. My face was starting to hurt from smiling so much. I had spent a solid three hours running around like a tourist and needed to get in touch with some friends. Making my way to a cafe, I got myself a tea and began writing people, since I didn't have a phone yet.

After getting in touch with a couple people, I lined up a free surf board and a free place to stay that night in Freshwater, right where I wanted to begin my surf safari. (Thank you so much Llana for the board and Shelby Wood for the hook up!) So after picking up this 6'3 little shredder, I headed towards Freshwater, which is near Manly to meet my good friend Jacqui whom one of my best buddies Ryan Priest had set me up with. Jacqui immediately took me under her wing, introducing me to her three beautiful children Jade, Jasmine, and Robbie, and then the next day took me all over the area, showing me all of the local surf spots, hidden lookout points, and so much more that I would have never been able to see without her taking me around. After showing me the surf, I was just itching to get in the water and try out this new board so I went to a spot called Curl Curl Beach  and ended up surfing for hours in the crystal clear waters.

It was a beach break with big jutting, yellow and tan cliffs on either end. Little beach cottages lined the hills surrounding the quiet little beach which bestowed an informally quaint feeling to it. While surfing I would sometimes get lost staring at the scenery, completely enamored and awestruck at my surroundings, then a large wave would crash down on me and snap me out of my trance. This would happen nearly three times before the end of the surf session.

After having a lovely dinner that night, it was hard to say my goodbye's to the Pockock family. They knew I had a big adventure ahead of me though, and while I could easily see myself staying in this gorgeous little beach town, losing myself in the beauty within it and surfing all day, I had to move on.

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The Plan

Well folks, I'm at it once again. The past year in San Francisco has been amazing to say the least but nonetheless it is time to yet again embark on another adventure abroad. 

After hearing nothing but good things about Australia from people all over the world, I have combined their advice, knowledge and experiences together to form my own journey in this land down under. This trip is over a year of planning and preparations in the making, covering everything from how I will get around, where I'll be staying, what I'll be seeing etc. etc. The logistics is really the only part that is plannned however. Flights, transportation, expenses. The rest is completely improvisational, and I love it that way. That is what makes it an adventure. Most of the places I go will be by word of mouth from a locals, or discovered unexpectantly. 

Three months ago I purchased a one way ticket and a year long work visa that will allow me to legally make money, travel, surf etc in Australia. Upon recently acquiring a new job based in San Francisco, I will unfortunately be able to stay in Australia for only a month. That being said, last time I intended being abroad for six months in Guam turned into two years of world travel and a world of experiences, literally. As some of you know, I thrive on adventure, new places, new cultures, and if Australia turns out to be as amazing as everyone has told me, who knows how long I'll be staying for. 

Since I'll only be staying for "a month" I've decided to make a surf trip out of my time there. As I mentioned above, I like to keep it improvisational, but I do have a rough outline to guide me. I arrive in Sydney, where I'll be picking up my Wicked Camper (you'll read/see that in the next blog) a couple surf boards, and meeting up with friends whom I've either previously  met abroad  or have gotten in touch with through other friends. I'm thinking I'll probably stay a few days, check out the sites, surf Bondi beach, Manly, and then head out to the Blue Mountains, where I'll backpack around and get my nature on. After that it's off I go up the eastern coast surfing, camping, sight seeing, hanging with locals and frankly just seeing everything Australia has to offer me.