Tuesday, September 17, 2013

Jimbo


Waking up the next morning, I half expected to have a mellow day enjoying the beauty of Airlie beach.  Spending a bit of time down by the water, I met a few backpackers that told me about some of their adventures and while swapping stories, I saw a stunt plane in the sky doing all sorts of flips,
turns and spins right above us on the beach. Immediately packing up my stuff, my new found friends were curious where I was off to in such a hurry. Power walking away, I shouted that I had a plane to catch, and ran back to ask my tour agent friend to see how I could get on that plane.

I was disappointed to find out that there was only one guy that flew the stunt plane, and he rarely goes up anymore because he retired. Knowing that if I could just get in touch with this guy,  I could convince him to take me up no matter what the cost might be. Getting a phone number, email, and address I started exhausting my options to try and get in touch with this dare-devil pilot. Driving down to the runway, I asked other flight tour desks if Jim, the stunt pilot, was around. Every desk I went to said I had just missed him and that he was rarely there anyways. Spending nearly ten bucks in pay-phone calls to get in touch with him, I got nothing but an answer machine all day, and despite the three emails I had sent out to him, I had gotten no response. ​

I wasn't even able to enjoy the beautiful sunset that evening because of how disappointed I was at not being able to get on that stunt plane, And with me leaving Airlie Beach the next morning, I really wanted to end this 3000K trip north on a good note. Trying not to let it get to me too much, I figured I would go grab a beer and try to salvage my day by having a fun night.

Grabbing a stool next to an old, Florida retirement home looking guy, I ordered a beer, took a swig and let out a sigh. The late seventy-something year old looked over at me and said, "Ah mate, look where you ah here. Can't be that bad hey!" Cracking a smile, I looked over at him and agreed, "Ya, you're right. I just got my hopes up today that's all." He retorted, "Ah mate, what a girl stand you up t'day at the beach or what?" Shaking my head I explained to him how I tried all day to get in touch with this jerk stunt plane pilot, and that he didn't return my phone calls or emails or anything. I went on and on telling him how excited I got at the first sight of that stunt plane that morning, and how I tried so hard to get a hold of that pompous pilot. He let out a peculiarly large laugh and started inquiring a bit more about who I was and what I was doing in Australia. After telling him my story, I asked him what he was doing in Airlie Beach, figuring he was on vacation or something. "I live here mate!" A bit embarrassed I said, "Very nice, you're quite lucky to live in such a beautiful place. Hey you wouldn't happen to know that stunt pilot would you?" Hoping he didn't, because I had just called the pilot a jerk. "Ah ya I doooo mate. Matta of fact, that pilot is meee hey!" Turning beet red in shame, I began apologizing and fumbling in embarrassment. "Oh! Uh, ummm, I'm so sorry, I uhh.. thought that he.." Cutting me off with his big laugh, he got up from his stool and with a hefty pat on my back said, "Be at the runway at 8AM mate." And he walked away. A bit awe struck, I sat there smiling, shaking my head in embarrassment at what had just occurred.


With my spirits now very high, I had a great rest of my night but ensured I was in bed early enough to make my 8AM rendezvous the next day, which I was right on time for. Showing up to find Jim polishing a plane that looked older than him, I once again began apologizing for yesterday and explained how grateful I was at the opportunity to fly with him. Being the jolly guy I would find out he is, he laughed and told me not to mention it. He then told me to hop in the front seat of the plane and he would strap me in. Pointing at about five levers, knobs and dials, he nonchalantly told me that if I accidentally hit any of these, that we could crash. Thinking this might be difficult being that we would be doing aerial acrobats, I just nodded with a nervous smile, eager to get in the air.

Priming the engine, he went to the front of the single prop plane and began winding the propeller. Then with one big pull in the opposite direction, the engine began to put, put, put to life. Quickly hopping in, Jim then gave it a rev and got this ancient dinosaur of a plane onto the runway.

I could hear us get clearance for take off through the headphones and going no more than thirty miles an hour, the light plane hopped right up into the air and off we went, out towards the islands I had just circled the the day before by boat. The aerial view was incredible as I could see the Whitsundays and all the surrounding islands with the Great Barrier Reef vibrantly coloring the shallow turquoise waters. It was incredible to see this small section of the overwhelmingly large reef knowing that so much microbiology, intricate ecosystems, and beautiful sea life was thriving just below the surface. After the scenic tour, it was time to head back to Airlie to begin the acrobats right above the beach. With a quick confirmation over the microphone, I gave Jim the thumbs up and immediately we went into a straight, spinning nose dive towards the ground, only to pull up just in time and begin more twists and turns. The giant flips we would do we're the most fun because as we would come back around, I could feel the G-forces pushing down on me, throwing me into a fit of uncontrollable laughter. We would continue for about a minute, straighten out to catch a breath and then once again start the roller coaster ride all over again. I was loving every bit of it and was able to get some great GoPro footage before having to finally turn back towards the runway.

Touching down, I could not thank Jim enough for taking me up on such an incredible aerial adventure. It was one of the highlights of my trip. Truly an experience I will never forget. Still planning on heading out that day, I ended up picking up two backpackers for company on the long drive back down and off I went, taking all the great memories and good times in that I had made from the paradise of Airlie beach.

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One-Thousand K's to Three Beautiful Days


Watching the Sunshine Coast slowly fade in my rear view mirror, I was bit sad I was leaving not only Shy and Michelle, but also that I was leaving the surf as well. See, the way the East coast of Australia works is that you get great surf all along coast until you cross an imaginary line right after a surf
spot called 1770, just a ways up from the Sunshine Coast. After that point, a few islands off the coast, along with the Great Barrier Reef, obstruct any swell from reaching the shore. Oh and also, once you pass this imaginary line, salt water crocodiles, killer box jelly fish and agressive bull sharks inhabit the waters. So now my mission was to conquer the reef and see it in as many ways as possible. Thinking that there wasn't a whole lot to see between the one-thousand killometers that separated Sunshine Coast and the Great Barrier Reef, I tried to knock out the sixteen hour drive as quickly as I could. And to be honest, it really wasn't all that bad because what was ordinary and generic to most people on that road, was new and exciting to me. I watched as the landscape changed from thick, dense forest and trees, to open plains with random, scattered trees here and there with the presence of mountains constantly in the background, separating the green, lush coastal regions
from the red barren deserts. Then I would go through kilometer upon kilometer of sugar cane fields on either side of me that stood well over five meters tall. Driving through small towns where the sugar cane was being processed, I would roll down my windows to the sweet, sugary aroma blowing in the air. Stopping at a gas station in one of the small cane producing shires, I made small talk with the clerk and he said that it was harvest season and that I should grab a sugar cane to gnaw on for my drive. So I did, and I was pleasantly surprised at this occupation keeping me busy during my drive. As it became dusk, I continued to see more and more kangaroos hopping about, and knew I would have to pull off pretty soon. Kangaroos are sadly like the deer of the states. Their carcasses litter the road, and if you happen to hit one, you're guaranteed an expensive repair cost on your car, if not worse if they make you crash. Pulling off at a campground, I settled in for the night excited I was only six hours away from seeing one of the greatest natural wonders of the world the next day. As the scenery continued to amuse me the next day, I decided to pull off the highway towards the small town of Airlie
beach. I was still about five hours away from Cairns, but the drive was taking a toll and I knew I would still be able to snorkel the reef from here. Parking my car, I immediately went to a tour office to book a snorkel adventure, being that the reef is only accessible by hired boat. After going through just about every option with a very cute tour lady, I was booked in on the most adventurous tour they offered. It was a speed boat tour that went to not only the reef, but also to the Whitsundays, which is where the purest, whitest sand in the world comes from. They even made the lense from the Hubble space telescope out of this stuff! ​ I decided to check into a hostel that night because you always meet interesting people at hostels, and its a great way to socialize and find out interesting things about all sorts of stuff. I ended up meeting a Frenchman, a Brit and my first American since I had gotten to Australia. We all went out that night and had a great time sharing stories and adventures and future plans.

The next day, we all said our goodbye's set out on our own tours. Showing up to a dock not too far from my hostel, I met a few other people going on the tour and then met the energetic staff of the jet boat I was about to board. They were all very excited about something and kept on saying how much fun we were going to have that day. Now trust me, I've worked in the hospitality industry before and have seen plenty of fake excitement, but these guys were genuinely excited about something.
And then they laid it on us. "Oi theh mates! I reckon we'll be havin' waves tallah than a kangaroo on a dingo's back due to the twennay plus knot wiiiinds wer havin' t'day!" And then he went on to say that if you were pregnant or had back problems or get at all nauseous on the ocean, that you absolutely should not go on that tour today. This was all music to my ears as I then too became even more excited than I already was.

As we left the safety of the harbor, we began to see the wind swell become more and more apparent. At first it was little three foot waves that we could just bounce over, but then as we rounded one of the islands, into open waters, we went head on into waves that were ironically accurate to our guides description of them being as tall as a kangaroo standing on a dingo's back, if you can imagine it. Or about nine feet tall if you can't.
The boat began its aquatic beating from the waves as it climbed up to the peaks and then came crashing down, spraying the salty sea water over everyone. Up and down, side to side, we were getting tossed around like a echidna in a dingo's mouth. Everyone was frantically grabbing onto whatever they could, bracing themselves as we would occasionally fly through the air and then nose dive through the next oncoming wave. With a front row seat at the bow of the boat, I was loving every bit of this bucking bronco of a ride. The screams and shouts of everyone just added to the fun as I would occasionally look back at the sheer terror on the tourist's faces.

Finally getting some shelter from yet another beautiful island, we pulled into an uninhabitted bay to check out the Whitsundays from a high point. Hiking no more than ten minutes up this island trail, I came to a clearing where I experienced one of my top three most beautiful sights I have ever laid eyes on. Right up there with Mount Everest and the mile deep, underground sparkling caves of Laos. As I looked out before me, I saw pure white sand bars that looked like they had been painted on the turquoise waters by with a paint brush with vivid green jungle
islands as the framework. Even from as high up as I was, I could see the contrast of the dark black bat rays soaring through the shallow waters and even spotted a sea turtle floating about. I was flabbergasted at what I was standing before. Pure beauty. Now it was time to explore. After a short lunch buffet, we went out and meandered the colorless sands of this
beautiful area. Never have I seen such brilliance from a beach before in my life. It was one of those times where I just had to keep slowly turning in circles in attempt to absorb as much of this paradise as I could. ​ The tour wasn't over yet. Crashing through more waves, we made it to a sheltered part of the Great Barrier Reef. Now, with the winds being as rough as they were, we unfortunately did not have the visibility we normally would have on a clear, calm day. Nonetheless I was first one off the boat, dolphin kicking around the massive coral heads, eager to explore the reef to it's fullest.
Taking tons of photos and videos of the beautiful reef, I saw all sorts of varieties of coral. Fish were everywhere among the coral, and giant clams the size of basketballs would snap shut at the slightest disturbance, only to cautiously reopen, flaunting its vivid red, purple and blue insides. The complexities of the reef perplexed me as I swam through schools of fish and over peculiar looking sea plants that looked like they were made of silly putty.
I was able to stay out there for for over an hour before I was called back to the boat, being the last one in. And as we resumed our roller coaster of a ride back to Airlie Beach, the sun began using its own paint brush to color the sky pinks, oranges and yellows. 

Tuesday, September 10, 2013

Friends, Fans and Flips


Continuing on my Australian adventure, a few days went by with me meandering beaches, meeting new interesting people in Coff's Harbor, having a run in with my first water dragon in Byron Bay, and then finding amazing waves at beautiful Lennox Head that would have me contemplating turning this vacation into a reality.

Continuing on though, I drove my search for waves up the Gold Coast until I hit Surfer's Paradise where I was very excited to potentially meet up with my old friend Lee that I worked with while living in New Zealand. A bit surprised at arriving on moments notice, he was still able to show me all around Surfer's Paradise. It was unbelievable how many skyscrapers covered the shoreline and how many people littered the streets. I was definitely in tourist-ville, but I could see why so many people came here with how beautiful the beaches were and with how much there was to do around the city. After roaming around all day seeing the sights and checking out the nightlife a bit, I continued on the next day to surf somewhere, no anywhere where there weren't so many "surfers" in the water. ​

Not sure exactly what town I was in, I woke up the next day in my little camper to the sound of waves breaking on the shore which might I say is probably one of my favorite things to wake up to. After getting a morning surf session in, I got back to my car and just as I was about to leave, an actual beach bum began chatting me up. We had a very interesting conversation about life, living and happiness and then he told me about a beach on an island not to far from where we were. So after giving him an apple, an avocado and a couple tortillas, I set off for Bribie Island. ​

Crossing a long bridge and arriving at what seemed to be a very ritzy area with huge beach-side mansions and yachts scattered about, I wasn't too sure I would be very into this detour after all. However, I remembered that the bum, who introduced himself as Z by the way, said to take the main road to the far side of the island until it turns to dirt and then pull off wherever you please to have the beach all to yourself. So I did, and sure enough, I pulled up to my own beach stretching further than I could see. Even after walking along the beach for an hour, it still seemed to just keep going and completely vacant of people too. Hence the lack of people, the wildlife flourished with sea eagles soaring through the sky, then swooping down, plucking unknowing, red fish the size of rugby balls straight out of the water. Small sand crabs tip toed along the white sand, claws outstretched towards me as I approached, only to retreat to small holes in the sand when I got too close. I was even lucky enough to see a pod of miniature dolphins swim by. At first I thought I saw a couple baby dolphins, but after gazing a bit closer, I noticed all six of them were no longer than the leg of a tall man. I would later find out from an old salty fisherman with weather worn tattoos on his face that these were Kimberly Dolphins, indigenous to Australia. ​

After yet another beautiful sunset, I sat on the sand and watched the stars begin to illuminate to the sounds of waves lapping at the shore. Waking up on the beach the next morning to the sounds of laughter, I groggily looked around to see what was so funny. I then realized that there weren't people around for miles. Following my ears to the trees I saw that the laughter was coming from two birds with big brown eyes. Surely I was still asleep and this was all a dream, but sure enough these bird's calls sounded like laughter. Turns out these birds are called the Laughing Kookaburra, native to Australia. ​

Later that day I surfed a break called Moffat's point on the south side of the Sunshine Coast. After the four hour surf session, I went to a cafe to get some Internet, only to be pleasantly surprised to find out that my best buddy Shy, from college was surprising his girlfriend by coming to the Sunshine Coast to visit. At this news I drove up to meet them at Noosa Heads, which is a surf spot notorious for some of the longest rides in
Australia. Walking down the street, Shy's girlfriend, Michelle, who is from the Sunshine Coast, spotted me and from there we went to the Noosa Heads National Park to see some truly beautiful beaches as well as see some amazing lookout points. Swimming around in the
small waves for a bit, we watched the sun start to fall from the sky. After a failed attempt at trying to catch a wild Aussie turkey, we decided to get going and barely made it out of the park before it got pitch black out.

The next few days would be spent in great company having Michelle and her lovely parents show Shy and I around Coolum beach, where they are from, as well as the surrounding areas. The second day we went on a beautiful little hike along a river that fell into a large pool that we were able to jump into and swim around in. Basking in the sun, enjoying the waterfall alighting next to us, I couldn't imagine having a better time until we discovered the rope swing. Now this wasn't just any rope swing, but the most epic rope swing I have ever come across in
all my travels, and trust me, I have swung many a ropes in my day. Taking the swing as high as I could on the slope, way back into the trees, I nervously gripped as tight as I could, heart pumping, adrenaline rushing and let my feet up from underneath me. Watching the rocks and brush rush beneath my feet, gaining speed, I then broke through the fauna out over the water, at least twenty from the surface doing a flip and then landing in the cool water. Now, you know an event is genuinely exciting when without thinking, you uncontrollably shout out in fervor and that is exactly what I did as I came to the surface, unable to stop smiling.

Entirely content with the day's events, we later headed over to one of Michelle's good friends for dinner, having some delicious local fish And great conversation. The next day we went out snorkeling right off Point Arkwright, just out front of Michelle's parent's house. Swimming our way out to the reef, Michelle immediately spotted a sea turtle, and then we saw giant schools of fish go by us in the clear, blue water. We spent a good amount of time out at that point spectating the ecosystem flourishing before us, and then right as we decided to head back to shore, Shy spotted a bat ray soaring effortlessly over the reef. Cautiously staying a safe distance behind the four foot long tail with a deadly barb at the end, Shy was able to get a clear shot of the ray on camera just before it decided to swoosh off into the depths ahead.
Excited at getting a chance to see as many residents of the reef that we did, we talked all about it that night at dinner with Michelle's parents, having my first Aussie steak that nearly covered my entire plate. Needless to say, there was nothing left on my plate by the time I done. ​

On my last day with Shy and Michelle we went to my first live rugby match between two local towns in the surrounding area. It was especially eventful because it just happened to be the Grand Final, which is basically like the championship game. After getting a few Aussie brewskis, we were ready to join the fans which all seemed to have had quite more than just a few. I actually have never heard a more interactive crowd in my life as
we watched the two teams smother, tackle and beat on one another. The heckling going on in the stands was possibly more entertaining than the game itself as they called the players names and bantered back and forth among apposing fans. All in all the game was very entertaining and a ton of fun. ​
Not knowing if it would be months or years before I would see these two friends again, it was hard to say goodbye. Heading back to the highway was tough, but with the thought of The Great Barrier Reef only a day away, I started my sixteen hour, straight shot to Airlie Beach, where I would end up having the time of my life! ​ ​ ​ ​ ​

Friday, September 6, 2013

Beach Bum Beginnings


The next part of my journey here in Australia involves scowering the coast for the perfect wave. I have already experienced great surf in Curl Curl down in the town of Manly, however being that this trip was originally built around surf spots, there is going to be quite a few waves involved. I'll try not to bore you too much with details of every wave I surfed, but I will tell you about some amazing highlights from a few great spots.
Waking up in Port Macquarie to the muffled murmers of old people peering into my car, debating if I was dead, a bum, or just a really tired guy sleeping in his car, I rolled out of my cave wishing I had put the curtains up around all the windows. As the profoundly aged fled the scene to continue on their dawn walks, I figured I might as well get a move on and dstart checking surf spots in hopes of paddling out before making another great leap up the coast to the next planned beach on he map. Port Macquirie has a few different beaches pointed in difference directions allowing you to pick the best facing beach according to the swell direction coming in. After the first two spots failed to impress me, I was happy to see head high waves at the only northerly facing beach I came to. Throwing on my wet suit, I optimistically sauntered down to the beach, eager to catch waves. There were only a hand full of guys in the water as I was paddling out, and as I was on my way to join them I started noticing large, jagged rocks begin to jut out of the water as the waves would recede the water's depth exposing them. Zig zagging my way out to the peak, I sat and watched the "safe zones" that the locals were surfing, taking note of where and when the death traps revealed themselves.
After building up some courage, I paddled into my first wave, and as I stood up and started taking the wave down the line, three dolphins began riding the wave with me! I could clearly see their slender, streamline bodies through the transparent, turquoise water, pumping their powerful flukes, propelling them along the wave with me. With everything slowing down as if it were in slow motion, I could see the wave, the dolphins, the white sand all beneath me through the glimmering, early morning water. Awestruck at this incredible wave I was on, I couldn't help but think that this wasn't real, however it all became very real very quickly. Now everybody knows that when time slows down into slow motion, in order for it to catch back up to present time, it has to go twice as fast. So as my surreal experience quickly came to an end, in an instant the dolphins did an underwater flip to avoid the shallowing waters before us, returning back out towards the incessant number of aqua bumps rolling in. With time still trying to catch up, I was barely able to notice the protruding rocks speeding towards me. Putting all of my weight on my heals, trying to turn out of the way of the guaranteed hospital appointments in front of me, I just barely missed the rocks as I fell into the white wash.
A bit jolted, flustered, puzzled, ecstatic at what had just happened, I paddled back out to the group to get one approving nod from a local, which was satisfactory enough for me. The rest of the surf session was pretty standard, and after getting out of the water, packing up and getting back to the M1 highway, which roughly runs from Sydney to Cairns, I set off for the next surf town. This would go on for the next four days, going from one sleepy surf town to the next, camping in my little Wicked Camper on the beach. If there were waves, I would stay the day going out multiple times a day only to be hindered by the deep growls of my stomach. Once fulfilled, back out I went until either the sun went down or my arms became flaccid spaghetti noodles, pathetically slapping at the water. ​ With it being Australia's early spring it still gets dark before 6pm, so I'll often spend my nights at cafe's or pubs, eager to talk to anyone willing to tolerate me being that the only person I talk to is me, myself and Buddy (my car) while on the road for hours at a time. More often than not, I'll end up engaging with someone interesting whether it be the old salty seaman, telling me of his own adventures on the ocean, or a waitress that loves America and can't wait to see LA (I usually shed a bit light on that situation), or some other foreign traveler, trying to find their way in this vast world we live in. It's kind of surreal having conversations with people you meet that you know you'll never, ever see again. I've sometimes caught myself thinking about what it would be like to be them and live the life they have had. Such unique lives each and everyone one of us live... Adversely though, other nights I won't feel like talking to anyone and I'll end up finding myself on some vacant beach writing or reading or sometimes just staring up at the stars in wonderment as I listen to the waves greet the shore. In a way, I sort of feel like the beach bums you see back home; only with a car, surfboard and electronic devices. Nonetheless, I'm finding this temporary reality to be so much different than my past traveling experiences. In a good way. ​
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